Hello, I'm a Architectural Model maker who in his spare time likes to make props.

To view my online Photo Portfolio of my Architectural model making please go here.

This blog is where i document my progress with photos and write ups.

Please read my about me page for contact info and how to enquire about commissions or plan purchases.

Plans for sale : here

6 June 2017

The Grail Diary From Indiana Jones And The Last Crusade.

This prop build is a bit wordy , sorry, but there are still a few pictures for you to enjoy. 

Another of the holy trilogies* that I am a fan of is the Indiana Jones films. 
That being said i felt it was time to approach one of my favourite props from the films. (and one i can do while recovering from surgery) was the Grail Diary that Henry Jones sends to Indiana in the Last Crusade.  


As always i started with a good old Google. 

To say that there are a few websites with information on what is inside the grail diary is an understatement, so if you are wanting to make the diary yourself do a search, you will find more information than you know what to do with. 
I will share some of the links that i used and that were very helpful. 

LINKS i used are listed below.
(there were more but they have been lost to the wind)

Zenseeker was one of the most helpful, i got the page order and a lot of the page art work from here. 
Club obi wan is a great forum (you have to sign up to see posts) where people discuss everything you might need to know. 
indianajones.dk has a great selection of info. and also a nice little tutorial with loads of links and helpful tips. 

All these places will HELP you make a diary but there isn't a place that will just give you the info for a whole diary. This page is definitely not going to give you anything of the sort. people spend years collating the info for their diary and are not about to give it out for free. I worked hard and did a lot of research and drawing and computer work to get my pages and I'm not going to give them away so don't ask. 




 With all that out of the way lets get down to it! 
I made a hero diary. One that is as close to the one used in the filming, not one that would be a story diary. The story diary has a made up chronology to it and includes pages that are not used or seen in the film. The hero diary has a set of pages that are repeated throughout the diary, some with different inserts to act as markers for the actors etc. Mine is a HERO. 


PAGE ORDER AND LAYOUT

The first step I took was to look through all the websites above and get a page order list which included a list of the inserts. 

In the below lists there are some pages with "set##" these are official pages from the hero diary and can be found on the zenseekers website.

 As you can see (if you read it all straight off) there are 4 sets of unique Signatures (groups of pages) that have different pages that repeat through the whole diary. 


PAGE ARTWORK

 Above is how i did the first four signatures of my diary.  certain pages are repeated in the first four then the four signatures are repeated through the book. 
I went through age by page and looked up what the page listing referred to on the links above and if i could find good quality art work i would see if i could use it. if it didn't have a good quality on i would use a low quality one and draw it and scan it myself. a lot of the pages were low quality and i had to redraw or compose them myself. 

The technique i used to recreate the images in the diary was as such : 
  1. I would find a low quality page and size it proportionally to the diary page size.
  2. Project from my laptop using a small projector onto an A4 sheet of paper, one A4 per diary page.
  3. Draw over the projection onto the A4 using different thickness pens to recreate as close as possible what i felt the original page looked like. 
  4. Scan the A4 drawing into the computer. 
  5. Edit the scanned image so it had no background colour so when placed into my layout program you can only see the drawing. 
above are a couple of examples. I did tend to do more than i really needed as i found the ones I drew were better than even the high quality ones I found, Also... you know... I drew them which makes it a little more personal .


LAYING OUT THE SIGNATURES
 
 I used indesign to layout my signatures one by one. The little diagram at the top of the image was a helpful tool to work out which page goes on the back of the next and which is printed on the same page as which. 
page 1 is not next to page 2 
1 is next to 16 and page 2 is printed on the back of page 1, page 15 is next to page 2 and on the back of 16. 
but you have to know where they will print on your printer as when you turn it over to print the second side the orientation changes. unless you have a fancy printer that can print double sided, mine couldn't, i had to do it manually. 



PRINTING PAGES


 
 Once I had printed all the page sets, four pages of a signature on one sheet of A4 paper, i grouped them and folded them along the centre.
I printed the pages with crop marks out from the edge of the pages so later when i trim them down the crop marks wont be seen. 



BOOK BINDING


 When the pages are collected into the signatures its time to poke holes in them for the binding stitching. 
I made a block for the pages to sit in and all be in the same place. I used a bit of paper the same length as the pages and marked where I wanted the holes for the stitching to be. laying this inside the pages when they were in the block i pushed a large needle through all the pages from each signature.

  
 All the holes will be threaded together. 
keeping them in order i clamped the first signature down so the pages wouldn't shift as I stitch them. 

I will say this: I AM NOT A BOOK BINDER. this is how i did it, winging it as i went with what i had and could get a hold of without leaving the house. so some of this may be wrong, But it worked for me.  

I used a section of stitched ribbon type stuff (i forget the name) to use to back the stitching so it would have more strength.

Once I had stitched along the first signature i place the second one on top and clamped it in place and stitched it in the other direction. as i got to the ribbon i tied it to the signature below to keep them tight together.

This picture was taken much later but i need it to show that i glued a strip of bandage/fabric along the stitching to act as a flexible spine and to hold the signatures together. 

I forgot to take photos during this process. it was clamped with two bits of wood to keep it tight and then i glued the fabric along the spine and let it dry. i used pva glue as it stays flexible when dry. 



TRIMMING THE PAGES


I measured and marked out the page size on the outer pages, using the crop marks. 

Using two lengths of wood I clamped the pages of the book as tight as I could, so when trimming them to size they don't move.

It took a long tome to cut through all the pages, and it made a lot of mess :)



MAKING THE INSERTS

I forgot to take photos of the inserts on their own so this photo of them under the book will have to suffice.
 I printed the inserts on different types and colours of paper: thick paper, thin paper, thin card and coloured cards for the tickets. There is a brown envelope which i printed the details for it onto brown packing paper. 
The camel cigarette package was printed double sides onto white card, the front was printed with the cigarette label and the inside was a crumpled brown paper design so it looked like a used packet.



I went through the diary and placed the inserts in the diary according to the page list found on the websites listed at the top of the post.


BOOK COVER BINDING

I forgot to take photos of the process of making the cover. so this picture and an image i found on the Internet will have to suffice.

I used some leather i purchased of Ebay, the seller said it was from an old sofa, so it was worn and scuffed which was perfect for the cover of the Diary.

I used thin plastic for the cover boards instead of cardboard but that doesn't make much difference. 
I scratched and scuffed one side of the plastic board so that the shiny plastic will adhere to the underside of the leather. 
the two front cover boards were cut to just slightly larger than the page size of the diary. the spine board was cut to match the size of the height of the thickness of the book when bound and inserts inserted. 
using the diagram and trial and error worked out the placement of the boards on the leather i glued them in position and weighed them down until they were dry. I then scratched and scuffed an inch border around the cover boards so the folded leather would adhere to the inside of the cover boards. 

Attaching the cover to the bound book was easy. I printed a sheet of marbled paper out to act as "flysheets" these are used to start and finish the book. In the image above i glued the left side of the sheet to the inside of the book cover and the right hand side is glued to the last page of the book. The front is done in the same way, the spine is not glued in and is left floating so it can move when opening the book. 
 




FINISHING THE PAGES
 

Some of the art work on the pages needed a colour accent. I used some coloured pencils (others use water colour paints)
Above is the blue accent around the sword artwork. 




FINISHED BOOK


Once the Grail Diary is finished the only problem i can think of is that i don't know which page spread to display the Diary on. 


Thank you for reading (or looking at the pictures.) how i made my Grail Diary. If you have any questions about how i made my Diary please ask questions and i will try and answer them.




*The holy trilogy movies as stated in Ready Player One by Ernest Cline. Star Wars, Back to the Future, Indiana Jones, Lord of the Rings, and the Matrix


19 July 2016

Model Making Portfolio

My Architectural Model Making Portfolio is now live.

This is a living page and will be constantly changing.

To view it please click the link above or see the pages section to the right of this screen. 

Thank you.

29 February 2016

How To Make A MULTIPASS From Fifth Element.


I was browsing one of my favorite places for inspiration and research for props www.propstore.com.
they were selling a multipass and they had posted some really good close up photos of the multi-pass used in the film Fifth Element. 
So i decided i wanted to use those photos to make some Multipasses for my self and my wife. 

I screen grabbed the photos from the www.propstore.com


Using these pictures makes it very easy to replicate the prop myself.



Drawing up the plans. 

Using the photos from the prop store and Adobe illustrator i traced around them to make some plans for a laser cutter.

To get the scale and size correct i used some screen grabs from the movie.



Cutting Parts and Assembling

Using the plans i made i cut out all the parts on the laser cutter.

The white backed parts are 1mm thick perspex and the green backed is 2mm thick . 



Assembling the Multipass. 

I glued all the front parts together and left the rear half of the frame as i need to insert some of the fine detail in-between the front and back later on and don't fancy masking it off when it comes to painting.




Little details discovered.

When i was looking through the Prop store photos i saw a code on one of the parts, so i searched on my favorite internet search engine and discovered its a little diode readout think so i ordered some and that also helped with the scaling of the whole multipass.





Under coating all the parts. 

Keeping all the parts face up i gave them a coat of undercoat paint. 

Once the face up coat had dried i turned all the parts over and undercoated the rear side.


Art work.

While the paint was drying  i worked on the artwork for the multipass

Using photoshop and the screen grabs from the propstore i made the front and back for the cards. the fronts will all be different due to the difference in the people on the cards.  
I made one for leeloo from the movie and one for me and one for my wife.

i printed them on thick paper and cut them to fit the multipass frame, both front and back. 


Adding the details. 


i got some translucent acrylic rods for the fine details and cut them to size.



i cut the red rod to the same length as the hole for the diode and i cut the green/yellow rod to the length of the gap between the button on the chain hole. These parts will need further work before being attached to the final prop.


Final paint and final details.


I gave all the parts a coat of dark metallic paint. 

The green/yellow rod had to have a notch taken off the end to trim it down to the thickness of the middle layer of plastic (2mm) so the rear face frame can fit correctly. 


 The small red rod had one side of it sanded to a flat surface so it would be easier to glue it to the main prop.
The diode is just inserted into the hole cut for it.







To make the Yellow button i got some 25.4mm domes and sanded them down to fit inside the hole in the multipass.


I made many more than i needed as i scratched some and its always good to have some redundancy when making things.

Once i had filed the domes down i printed some yellow off and cut it into circles and glued them to the rear of the filed domes.
These will then be put in the hole for the yellow button (or whatever it is in the film) 

I glued the yellow button in so it would not move as i am using the back panel as the activation for the lights.

All three of the mulitpasses without the diode or the art work.




I used spray adhesive to mount the artwork. 
Front                                                            Back.

here are the passes with all the parts in place.


Connecting the diode.

I bent all the wires on the diodes towards the yellow button, this allows for the back to fit and the battery to be connected.

There was very limited space in the back for the battery and a switch so i just bent the wires that i soldiered onto the top LED of the diode (that was more than enough to light it up) the bottome wire was bent so it would always be in contact with the battery, the second wire was bend and taped so it doesnt actually make contact with the coin battery.
This is so when the rear of the battery compartment is only glued along one edge it acts as the switch for the battery to light up the diode. 

This is only the top LED of the diode lit up so it is more than enough to light the whole thing up. :)


once you have done all of the above you will have a cool looking MULTIPASS.




The final touch will be adding a Ball Bearing Chain through the chain Hole, then you will have an awesome looking prop from the movie :)

Thank you for looking and if you have any questions please ask and i will do my best to answer them.